After saying my goodbyes to Julie and Kelly I hiked in 8 miles and camped with friends - one of the brightest moons yet! We set up in a field and enjoying the shadows it cast.
The next morning dawned less glorious as I awoke with the "trail plague." 24 magical hours. Obviously my phone was broken, we weren't near any roads, and nobody had a map... A high school backpacking class on the other end of the field couldn't direct me and had no phones either. Geez Louise.
Finally Waldo got a signal and I called a trail angel that another hiker miraculously had the number for. This incredible man (Ken) essentially spends his time transporting and rescuing thru hikers. He drove out, picked me up, and took me for a 24-minute, nauseatingly windy drive to a B & B in Montebello. The couple who ran the B & B (Dutch Haus) shuffled me to a bed where I slept about 15 hours. Upon recovering some level of consciousness I found they had cleaned my clothes and gear, layed out a bathrobe, and made me peanut butter crackers and tea. Ultimately they did not even charge me for the night. Trail magic at it's finest. I can't imagine how uncomfortable that day would have been alone in my tent.
The following day I tried a short slack-pack over Priest Mt and came back to find several other pals had arrived at Dutch Haus. We spent the night eating and watching Bladerunner. A full (and enjoyable) recovery!
Next day a storm began rolling in early afternoon and I pulled over to stealth camp. Eventually several others joined. Around 3am that morning I woke up to what sounded like some ambitious hiker getting an early start. I yelled something sleepy like "hey!" to confirm it was a person. In reply I heard a tearing sound and a snort which promted a much louder "HEY!" and woke up the others. The bear took off immediately but the thing had been about 10 feet from my tent and made off with Bush Man's food.
That morning I hiked a fast 15 through the rain into Wayensboro - a notoriously hiker-friendly town. The visitor's center had a list of about 20 folks and phone numbers to call for rides around town. We rang the first one, a man who came out in 15 minutes with candy bars for everyone and drove us into town. I headed to the YMCA for a shower (which an anonymous trail angel covers for hikers - along with towels, shampoo, and other such luxuries). A big gang of us crashed at a free church hostel on the same street which provided food, showers, cots, and the biggest TV I've ever seen... we all hibernated and watched movies while it poured outside.
The next day was no different and several of us took a "zero day." One hostel volunteer offered Bonesey, Seabass, and I a ride out to Charlottesville where we spent the afternoon.
Finally onward into Shenandoah Park! As so many had zeroed due to the rain we moved with a big gang. Bonesey, Rocket, Huck Finn, Fat Kid, and I decided it would be a great idea to try for a 24 hr hike during the Full Moon on June 6. Some trail magic provided us with bubbles, which we greatly enjoyed at a nice rock outcropping along the way. The park also had tons of camp stores and wayside restaurants and PEOPLE which made it an exception but interesting. We made it until around 1:30 am (sounds early, but keep in mind we usually sleep at 9). Saw bob cat #3 and Bonesey accidentally stabbed a rattle snake with his trek poll! That woke us up.
Another night we stealth camped on the porch of a cabin that visitors to the park can rent. Not only did it keep us somewhat dry, but we had the most incredible view of a lightening storm in a nearby valley. Purple lightening! Some of these summer storms are wild. Bob cat #4 came one night that I had to pull over and camp alone due to ANOTHER storm in the park. I think there is a parade of them following me north.
FINALLY out of Shenandoah and into Front Royal to resupply. 9 of us and one dog split 2 joined hotel rooms. It's always fun to spend time with trail friends off the AT when folks are clean and not completely exhausted.
The last stretch before Harper's Ferry went quickly - hiked over a 13 mile section known as the "roller coaster" up-down-up-down-up-down. Stayed at the PATC's Blackburn hiker hostel. An Amish family had it filled up so Bonesey, Rocket, Fat Kid, and I slept out on the enormous screened-in porch. Cowboy camping without the bugs and solar showers!
Walking into Harper's Ferry felt like a big victory. We clanged out trekking polls and yelled as we walked across the bridge into town. 1,013 miles!! Still, a bummer to part ways. Many folks headed in different directions to celebrate the half-way mark and take a break. I caught a ride into DC with a friend of a friend and enjoyed a spectacular weekend with pals from home and school. It made me feel amazing to think that only a few months ago I flew out of DC to get to the start of the trail... and had successfully walked back.
Today I am relaxing at Julie and Kelly's place in Frederick but should be back on the trail in a day or two headed even North'er.
I'm a lucky girl.
Hi Brooke! I'm so happy I saw you over the weekend. Right now I'm at work & sampling the pre-release of Pete Yorn's new album. Something for you to look forward to when you get done hiking! I can't believe all the nature-y adventures you're having. Have fuuuuun!
ReplyDeleteYou ARE an animal girl. It is great hearing that you are having so much fun out there. I miss you all alot. I cant stop thinking about the trail lately. WOw, you are having quite the encounter with wildlife on the AT!
ReplyDeleteStormcrow